Enzo Bonafe Lasts - 804 vs 363MOD Visual Comparison in HD
Enzo Bonafé has become quite popular in the last few years as the demand and popularity for high-quality shoes has grown. Their shoes have proven to be very popular on Styleforum as they've built quite a fan base in the community. In the US, it's now much easier to get your hands on a pair thanks to retailers like Sweden-based Skoaktiebolaget, US-based SoleGarb, and Leffot.
Considering that most of the time you'll have to order Enzo Bonafé shoes online, getting sizing right can be tricky. I've seen a few casual comparisons of their lasts online but wanted to take more precise approach. Consequently, I've put together an Enzo Bonafe lasts comparison (only 804 vs 363MOD so far) that I believe is a very accurate representation.
Before we dive into the visuals, here is my setup:
- Camera: Canon T2i (1.6x sensor crop factor)
- Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM (non-L)
- Results in a 160mm effective focal length
- Photos shot at f/4.0
- Distance to subject ~ 7 feet
Enzo Bonafe Lasts - 804 vs 363MOD Visual Comparison
We're taking a look at three Enzo Bonafe models: a black cap-toe oxford on the 804 last, their austerity oxford boot and Norwegian apron blucher, both on the 363MOD last. These are all in size 7.5UK or an 8.5 US equivalent.
This is a better look at the lasts because the shoes aren't actually sitting next to each other in the same photo. I've actually taken three separate photos and superimposed them via photoshop which should give the same top-down perspective for each. Yes, I know that stitching of photos together could be better, will work on that!
I've blown up each image to represent the real life size (again size 7.5UK 8.5 US). That means if you click the photo for full-resolution and print it out in actual size (given you have access to large enough paper), the resulting print should be very close to what it is in reality. I've used the gridlines to as a reference for getting the sizing right.
You can already get a good idea of how the lasts compare in this photo, most obviously that the 804 is more elongated than the 363MOD. But the 363MOD last on the shoe looks to be more pointed than the boot model. Which leads us to the next photo!
Enzo Bonafe Lasts - 804 vs 363MOD Toe Design Pattern Removed
Now we take a look at all the same shoes, similarly laid out. But with one big difference - I've removed any design pattern on the toes! The toe patterns, wingtip, cap-toe and apron stitch, distort our perspective on the shapes of the last.
Now the 363MOD lasted shoe and boot look much more similar in shape. You should also see that the 363MOD last looks rounder than the 804 in comparison to the first photo.
But there is still something that is twisting our perspective a bit. The boot looks to still be wider and possible rounder than it's shoe counterpart.
Enzo Bonafe Lasts - 804 vs 363MOD Toe Design and Welt Removed
In this photo, I've now removed the welts,( I know a little rough) the last item that has warped our perspective of the lasts. Both the 363MOD models look pretty much the same now and look to be a bit wider than the 804 (which they are).
Ideally, I'd have wholecuts in each last in the same color, but until I strike the lottery, this is probably the next best bet. Unless, of course, Enzo Bonafe releases an official last guide like Meermin or Alden has.
Enzo Bonafe Lasts - 804 vs 363MOD Measurements
Above are a few key measurements I've displayed (sized in 7.5UK). I hope this comparison has been helpful in getting a better idea of these two Enzo Bonafe lasts compared for sizing assistance. In general, the 363MOD last is a bit wider than the 804 in nearly all areas.
One pretty important element I've left out is instep height. Honestly, I couldn't figure out a really good way to display and compare the instep heights. But in both cases of 804 and 363MOD lasts, and Bonafe lasts in general, the insteps are high. The height is about the same for both these lasts just based on feel. Low volume/low instep feet likely won't fair too well in Bonafe lasts.
I take both lasts in the same size, but, to be honest, their lasts don't suit my feet very well. It's the case with most RTW offerings and my weirdly shaped feet. My ensuing pairs from Bonafe will probably be sized in the custom/bespoke last option to get a great fit.
My true shoe size is probably something 8EE in the forefoot and 8C in the heel. I'd describe my feet as flat and low volume as well.
It's really hard to make size recommendations so I won't even attempt it since everyone's feet are differently shaped. It's best to really get to know your feet's characteristics and try lasts from different makers to find a good fit. I will say I've heard some people being able to size down a half from their 804 size in the 363MOD. For some, they sized down half in both lasts from their regular sizes to get the right fit in the instep area.
I'm in the process of putting together a comprehensive last measurement and comparison post of all my shoes, so subscribe below or on Instagram for updates!
I'll continue refining the representation of lasts; after writing this post I see a lot more room for improvement.
As always have any questions or suggestions? Drop me a comment below!