The Shoe Collection Summer 2017
Over at Reddit in the r/goodyearwelt subreddit they have a quarterly "collections" thread where the community participates in sharing their shoe collections. I've recently been spending more time in the community reading and posting on Reddit and figured it would be good fun to join in. I think this will also help me keep track of my shoes regarding what needs to go and where I have gaps to fill.
When I first got into well-made shoes, I was a sale scavenger. On a budget, I'd buy what I liked but didn't necessarily love because it was available at a great price. As I've moved forward in acquiring more footwear, taste slightly changed, and I've become more selective about what shoes I buy. This is a good thing so I don't end up regretting purchases later on or not having the means to purchase a shoe I really wanted just because I bought a couple pairs I liked that were at a great discount. So I've tried to stay away from the "it's too good a deal to pass up" mindset, though, that's much easier said than done. I'm still guilty of it from time to time. Making an actual list, in the order of lust and trying to stick to it is a good idea!
At any rate, my humble, but growing collection is below. It's not the most spectacular or expensive collection, but it's moving in the right direction. Especially with a couple of recent Edward Green additions!
I've provided links to where to buy the shoes if any of them really tickle your fancy!
Alden Leisure Handsewn Penny Loafer in Snuff Suede, unlined on the Van last and a flex sole Size 8.5D
I purchased these during the Gentlemen's Footwear Memorial Day sale earlier this year. These have been my summer go-to, especially this week with it heating up beyond the triple-digit threshold regularly. Super slipper-like comfort. Make sure you subscribe to Gentlemen's Footwear newsletter as Steve emails out exclusives deals to those on the list. If you're ever visiting San Diego, be sure to set an appointment to stop by! He only accepts visits by appointment since his shop is very small.
If you don't have access to his shop or they are out of stock, below are a few other places to grab these penny loafers at. Don't be afraid of buying Alden at retail, they don't really go on sale as they are very strict with their retailers on upholding MSRP aka sell for less and you won't be selling Alden for long.
The Shoe Mart | Need Supply Co | Alden for J. Crew | Todd Snyder
Alled Edmonds Eagle River boot on a Vibram lug sole in size 8.5D
Honestly, these were one of those "it's so cheap I have to buy it" purchases. At $150 for first qualities it was hard to pass up. Living in SoCal, boots like this don't really make sense most of the time, but whenever I go up to the mountains to go snowboarding these are definitely on my feet. So for the rare rain, sleet and snow I'm ready.I think these are on the 511 last, I can't recall for sure. They also required stretching as the left shoe's vamp was super tight, it probably should've been a factory
I think these are on the 511 last, I can't recall for sure. They also required stretching as the left shoe's vamp was super tight, it probably should've been a factory 2nd to be honest. Also, it came from the factory with the leather pretty much completely unfinished, very different from their stock photo online. I remedied the issue with polish but will strip them down and patina them in the future.
It's not available right now and I'm not sure if they will bring them back, but you can check the links below for other Allen Edmond boots that are currently available. I'd highly recommend getting size in-store if you have one near you though!
Alled Edmonds Player's Shoe in Walnut Calf on the 222 last, in size 8.5D
This is the shoe that started it all for me. Now 4 years old, these are my first pair of goodyear welted shoes. These shoes have arguably held up the best for me as well as the right shoe shows very minimal creasing and I've not needed to install toe taps on them, which is rare for my gait.
They feature AE's older Walnut calf, a lighter shade than the current version. These were a Nordstrom exclusive and are no longer sold under the Player's Shoe name. Instead, an almost identical model called the Madison Park is now sold exclusively at Nordstrom, both in-store, online and sometimes at the Rack. The McAllister brogue from AE is much more popular, but I prefer the design of these without the overlapping of stitching near the vamp. I'll never let these go, as they will always hold a special place in my heart.
The newer version called the Madison Park is available at Nordstrom via the link below.
Alled Edmonds for Ralph Lauren, Sanderson Longwing Blucher Spectator in tan and khaki cotton with a double leather sole, size 8E.
A unique and rare makeup by Allen Edmonds for Ralph Lauren named the Sanderson. Although these are an 8E they still weren't wide enough on my left foot which is a little wider, so I ended up stretching the left shoe.
I don't wear these often, as I feel a little too dandy with them on. So they are reserved for Gatsby themed parties and when I'm feeling a hipster sort of vibe. I don't believe they are on a standard Allen Edmonds last, the Ralph Lauren counterparts tend to be built sleeker and these feature a narrow sole at the waist.
The regular version of the Sanderson was available on Ralph Lauren's website and I've seen them in-store as well. Also, you can get lucky at the ShoeBank sometimes, where I got mine. They may be phasing this model out, so you may have to check out eBay.
Allen Edmonds for Ralph Lauren, Singleton loafer in brown burnished calf, size 8E.
Allen Edmonds for Ralph Lauren loafer named the Singleton. The brown burnished calf on these is pretty nice. In my opinion, this model is one of the best loafers that Allen Edmonds has put out. The last is much sleeker than what is found in their current lineup. I wear them both with and without socks, though breaking them in with socks is a good idea. These can be found at a pretty steep discount, so if it pops up in your size, grab them! Check the links below for where to buy.
ShoeBank | Ralph Lauren | eBay
Allen Edmonds for Ralph Lauren, Singleton loafer in tan burnished calf, size 8E.
Same story above, I liked my first pair so much that I bought another. This time in a tan burnished variety. For whatever reason, these are built on a narrower last, size 8E as above, but ended up stretching them a little for accommodate my wider feet. May be available at the links below!
ShoeBank | Ralph Lauren | eBay
Design Loake for Brooks Brothers full-brogue in a distressed suede, with storm welt on a double leather sole, size 8.5
These are Brooks Brother's house brand Peal & Co shoes, but are based off of Design Loake's Jack model. Definitely, a step down from their well-regarded 1880 line, they have a double sole, but the midsole seems to be made of a leatherboard material. These should be built on the 024 last, a generous country inspired last, which I may have been able to size down 1/2 in. For me, these are beaters relegated to bar duty on the weekends. They serve that purpose perfectly.
I don't believe these are available anymore, but Brooks Brothers usually has quite a few Peal & Co models on sale. Right now, most of them are made by Crockett & Jones, but you'll find some Loake, Alfred Sargent and Alden in the mix there too! See link below for Peal & Co shoes as well as Loake Shoes (stick with the 1880 line or the new export grade line).
Brooks Brothers Peal & Co. | Robinson's Shoes | Debenhams
Loake Leamington for Brooks Brothers full-brogue in a navy suede, with storm welt on a crepe sole, size 8.5.
Similar story to the pair abaove these are Brooks Brother's house brand Peal & Co shoes, but are based off of Loake's Leamington model, from the well-regarded 1880 line. The suede used here is much better than the pair above, the crepe sole keeps things casual and comfortable. These should be built on the 024 last, a generous country inspired last, which I may have been able to size down 1/2 in.
I don't believe these are available anymore, but Brooks Brothers usually has quite a few Peal & Co models on sale. Right now, most of them are made by Crockett & Jones, but you'll find some Loake, Alfred Sargent and Alden in the mix there too! See link below for Peal & Co shoes as well as Loake Shoes (stick with the 1880 line or the new export grade line).
Brooks Brothers Peal & Co. | Robinson's Shoes | Debenhams
Carlos Santos Field Boot in oak calf and brown grain shaft, built on the 316 last with a double Dainite sole size 7.5 UK
Probably the best EG Galway imitation out there right now, I found myself reaching for these boots a lot whenever the weather is cool enough. I really love this makeup, obviously modeled after a very popular Edward Green Galway makeup. For my full review see here.
This model is exclusive to Skoaktiebolaget, one of my favorite online retail shoe shops. I actually have another makeup for sale right now, you can view it here if you're size UK 7.5 or US 8.5-9. Click below to visit Skoaktiebolaget.
Carlos Santos Field Boot in brown grain upper and mink suede shaft, built on the 316 last with a double Dainite sole size 7.5 UK
Same as above, just a different makeup. To read my full review, see here. This model is exclusive to Skoaktiebolaget, one of my favorite online retail shoe shops.
I actually have another makeup for sale right now, you can view it here if you're size UK 7.5 or US 8.5-9. Click below to visit Skoaktiebolaget.
Carmina for the Armoury, brown grain plain-toe blucher, storm-welted with Dainite Ridgeway double sole on the Llubi last, size UK 7.5
These are actually for sale, asking $350 shipped. Classy ass-shit kickers, come get em. An exclusive makeup for the Armoury on an underrated and little known casual last, the Llubi. Carmina describes it as the widest of their lasts..that's misleading. I still took my normal UK 7.5 after trying to size down half which did not work out at all.
You won't find these shoes and makeup anywhere unless you go the MTO route, so I suggest checking out what Skoaktiebolaget & Gentlemen's Footwear have to offer, links below.
Skoaktiebolaget (Sweden) | Gentlemen's Footwear (San Diego, CA)
Edward Green Cadogan semi-brogue in Loden Green suede on the 82 last, sized 8/8.5E
These Edward Green's are my first eBay auction win from LuxeSwap which I was absolutely ecstatic about! Acquiring my 2nd pair of EG's in a week's span, prior to having none. I really have thing for green suede and this shade is really great. I was little disappointed with the shade of my EB's further down below. Anyways, I haven't worn these yet as I bask in their new glory. The 82 last is a little narrow for my feet, so I may need to bust out the shoe stretcher for them, but I'll wear them a bit before doing so.
I'm guessing these were originally a MTO purchase given that they have the matching green leather lining and sockliner which is a nice touch.
You can purchase Edward Green from Mr. Porter and Gentlemen's Footwear, links below. You can also get maybe get lucky and score a discounted pair on eBay!
Edward Green Galway boot in Chestnut Utah grain on the 72 last, with double Dainite studded sole, with a storm welt, sized 8/8.5E
These are my very first and recently acquired Edward Green's. I knew it was going to be either a Galway or Dover as my first pair from EG. Dover is still very much on the most wanted list for me.
If I had one word to describe these boots, it would be...PLUMP. The Utah Chestbust is sublime. You'll very seldom find a vegetable-tanned calf leather out there, but this is one of them. After trying them on, I feel like these will easily be my most comfortable boots out of the box. Amazing leather. Available and Mr. Porter and check out the burnt pine pair of Galways at the link below from GF, that's probably my grail makeup right there!
Enzo Bonafé classic black cap-toe oxford with hidden seams, donkeyback construction, on the 804 last, size UK 7.5
It's the one dress shoe every gentleman needs. And I don't know if it gets any better than this example from Enzo Bonafé. The hidden seams keep the lines extra clean and the 804 shape really shines. EB insteps are pretty high so the fit actually doesn't work all that well for me, but tongue pads have helped alleviate that problem.
Handwelted in the front and blake-stitched at the waist makes for an extremely sleek silhouette, EB's "donkeyback" or Japanese construction method.
Enzo Bonafé has somewhat exploded onto the scene, but are available at the links below.
Skoaktiebolaget (Sweden) | Leffot (New York) | SoleGarb (MTO only)
Enzo Bonafé "hunter boot" austerity in bolet calf upper and hidro loden suede shaft, 363MOD last, size UK 7.5
One of my most comfortable boots straight out of the box, this is one of my favorite boot designs out there! I love green suede and two-toned boots and this has BOTH. A pretty iconic boot design along with. St. Crispin's similar boot. I'm a little disappointed that the green suede isn't as vibrant on my pair as it is with others I've seen Q_Q.
Enzo Bonafé has somewhat exploded onto the scene, but are available at the links below. This particular model may only be available at Skoak, however.
Skoaktiebolaget (Sweden) | Leffot (New York) | SoleGarb (MTO only)
John Doe Boot, in Horween Buccaneer leather, size 8E.
So I haven't had the chance to wear these yet with the weather being ridiculously hot lately, so keep an eye out on the full review of the pair below first. This pair features Horween's waterproof Buccaneer leather, so expect to see that put to the test this winter.
Shoes are available www.johndoeshoes.com .
John Doe MTO Boot, in Horween Natural Chromexcel leather, size 8E.
Same story as above. But I've gotten to wear them a few times, and boy have they broken in very nicely over just a few short wear. I imagine these will be very comfortable after being fully broken in.
Shoes are available www.johndoeshoes.com .
Johnston Murphy Melton in burgundy, goodyear welted, size 8E.
Honestly, the corrected grain leather on these is pretty shoddy. The edges of the leather are red, not sure what's causing that. I bought these on the whim as dress beaters before realizing my Allen Edmonds can take beating and look good just fine.
The good thing about these is that they are pretty comfortable with a padded sock lining, goodyear welted and I'm practicing installing metal toe-taps on them. But really I should donate them, after my experimentations I'll have no use for them given the other shoes I have in my closet.
That being said if you can get them on Amazon for around $100, you could do worse. Amazon link.
Kent Wang Handgrade Semi-brogue in brown museum calf, 101 last, fiddleback waist, size 8.5
An underrated shoe and really great value, Kent Wang's handgrade line provides a great choice for those looking for handgrade range details at benchgrade prices. Their 101 last is nicely chiseled and elongated featuring a larger ram's head medallion.
I'm really impressed with how good these. Check out my full review and where to buy at the links below.
Meermin black cap-toe blucher on the Ama last, size UK 7.5
Being my 2nd pair of goodyear welted shoes, this was an odd choice back when I didn't know too much about shoes yet, though I still have a long ways today. It's built on the sleek Ama last, that now seems to be discontinued. Originally listed as a wider fitting last, it didn't feel that way at all.
This was an example of a shoe that took forever to break in. The leather just feels so stiff, even after multiple conditioning of my super secret stuff that softens up any leather.
It doesn't get much wear, especially since I've worn the toe quite a bit. I should put these for sale. If you're UK 7.5, make an offer!! Available at Meermin's web store below, but also check out the link to their factory 2nd's store on eBay.
Meermin dark brown double monk on the Hiro last in size UK 7.5
These are my 2nd pair of Meermin bought off their eBay factory 2nd store. Very different from my first pair, these broke in very nicely and are very comfortable. The Hiro last suits my feet way better than the Ama.
Available at Meermin's web store below, but also check out the link to their factory 2nd's store on eBay.
Semi-bespoke Jodhpur fitting pair from..a mystery maker
So I can't really give any information on these at the moment. Stay tuned and subscribed to the blog for when I unveil this mystery maker.
Tricker's Malton boot, in c-shade with double leather soles, storm-welted on the 4497S last, in UK 7.5
So Tricker's let me know that they have now discontinued the Malton. But have no fear, it lives on as the Stow boot in C-shade! For whatever reason, they originally felt the need to have a different model name for the Stow in c-shade called the Malton. It makes it much more simple to get rid fo the Malton and just offer the Stow in c-shade since they're pretty much identical.
Maybe my best fitting shoe or boot beside the semi-bespoke project I have going on. I should really grab another pair. Took a while to break in, but they've been used A LOT and still look really great. I have had to reheel them once already and am due for another reheeling shortly. Never gone through reheels this fast with any other shoe or boot.
Many makeups available at the links below.
I'd love to see my reader's collections too!
Post your collection on the Reddit /goodyearwelt community and let me know in the comments so I can take a look too!